Washing Machine Not Draining or Spinning? Here's Why

01

Quick Safety First

Unplug the washer before you touch anything inside it. Lay down old towels, and keep a shallow pan or baking dish nearby, because a full drum can hold a lot of water.

On a front-loader, don't force the door open while there's water inside. Most doors stay locked until the water level drops, and forcing the latch can break it. If the washer is leaking, turn off the two taps behind it.

02

1. A Clogged Pump Filter

Many front-load washers, and some top-loaders, have a small filter in front of the drain pump. It catches coins, hair ties, lint and the odd sock. When it fills up, water can't get to the pump, and the washer stops with water in the drum.

On most front-loaders, the filter sits behind a small panel at the bottom front corner. Here's how to clean it:

1. Unplug the washer and put towels and a shallow pan under the panel.
2. Open the panel. If there's a small drain tube, pull it out and let the water run into the pan first.
3. Turn the filter slowly to the left. More water will come out, so go slowly.
4. Clear out whatever is caught, rinse the filter and screw it back in firmly.

Check your manual for your model, because filter spots vary. Many top-loaders don't have a filter you can reach.

03

2. A Kinked or Blocked Drain Hose

The drain hose runs from the back of the washer to a standpipe or laundry tub. If the washer was pushed back against the wall, the hose can fold flat. A sock can also get past the pump and lodge in the hose.

Pull the washer out a little and look for kinks or tight bends. Make sure the end of the hose isn't pushed too far down the standpipe. Then pour a bucket of water down the standpipe. If it backs up, the clog is in the house drain, not the washer.

04

3. An Unbalanced Load

If the washer drains but won't spin, the load may be off balance. When everything bunches on one side, the washer senses it and slows or stops the spin to protect itself. A single heavy item, like a comforter, a bath mat or a pair of jeans, is a common cause.

Also check the cycle: gentle, delicate and hand-wash cycles spin slowly and leave more water in the load, and too much detergent can make enough suds to stop the washer from draining and spinning. Open the lid or door, spread the load evenly, and run a spin cycle. With one bulky item, add a couple of towels to balance it. If the washer rocks or walks across the floor even with an even load, the legs or the suspension may need a look.

05

4. The Lid Switch or Door Lock

Washers won't spin with the lid or door open. A small switch or lock tells the washer it's closed. If that part wears out or breaks, the washer thinks the lid is open, so it may drain but never spin, or stop partway.

Signs it's the switch or lock:

• The washer fills and agitates but stops before the spin.
• You don't hear the usual click when the door locks.
• The display shows a door or lid code.

Close the lid or door firmly and make sure nothing is caught in it. If it still won't spin, the switch or lock needs testing. It's one of the more common washer repairs.

06

5. A Worn Drive Belt or Motor Coupling

Many top-loaders turn the drum with a belt or a small coupling between the motor and the transmission. Over time, the belt can stretch or snap, and the coupling can wear out. When that happens, you'll often hear the motor hum, but the drum barely moves or doesn't move at all.

A burning rubber smell, or a load that's only half spun, can also point here. Getting to the belt or coupling means taking the washer apart, so this is one to book.

07

6. The Drain Pump

If the filter and hose are clear and the washer still won't drain, the pump itself may have failed. Sometimes something hard gets past the filter and jams it. Sometimes the motor just wears out.

Listen during the drain part of the cycle. A hum with no water moving, a grinding noise, or no sound at all usually points to the pump. Your technician can test it and tell you whether it can be cleared or needs replacing.

08

7. The Control Board

Less often, the problem is the washer's control board, the part that runs the cycle. If it doesn't tell the pump to run, or skips the spin, nothing else will fix it. A blank or frozen display, or a washer that acts differently every cycle, can point here.

We check the simpler parts first, because a board is the last suspect, not the first.

09

What You Can Check Yourself

Work through these before you call:

1. Unplug the washer and lay down towels.
2. Clean the pump filter, if your washer has one you can reach.
3. Pull the washer out and straighten the drain hose.
4. Pour water down the standpipe to make sure the house drain is clear.
5. Spread out the load and run a drain-and-spin cycle.
6. Close the lid or door firmly and listen for the lock click.

If the washer still won't drain or spin, it's time for a technician.

Not sure what's wrong? Call 1-888-642-0352 or book online. Diagnostic regularly $129, now $99, and always waived when Aria does the repair.

10

When to Call

Call if:

• Water stays in the drum after you've cleaned the filter and checked the hose.
• The motor hums but the drum doesn't turn.
• You hear grinding, or smell burning rubber.
• The washer won't spin even with an even load and the door shut.
• There's water on the floor.

We do washing machine repair on top-load and front-load washers from all the common brands, including Samsung and LG.

11

What It Costs

Diagnostic regularly $129, now $99, and always waived when Aria does the repair. Your technician tests the washer, finds the part that has failed, and gives you the price before any work starts. Diagnostic regularly $129, now $99, and always waived when Aria does the repair.

Typical ranges from our washer repair page, in CAD before HST:

• Lid switch or door lock: about $150–$280
• Drive belt: about $150–$250
• Drain pump: about $180–$320
• Motor coupler or clutch: about $180–$340
• Control board: about $280–$450

Brand, model and parts change the final price. Completed repairs carry our 1-Year Parts & Labour Warranty.